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Sandesh: The Bengali Sweet That Never Needed to Travel
Featured
Food & Culture October 2026 7 min read

Sandesh: The Bengali Sweet That Never Needed to Travel

Rosogolla got the GI tag and the international fame, misti doi got the clay pot in every corner shop. Sandesh, the most technically demanding of the three, mostly just stayed home — and Bhim Chandra Nag has been making it since 1826.

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19 articles
The Amber Hour: Kolkata's Fading Yellow Streetlight
Culture 6 min read

The Amber Hour: Kolkata's Fading Yellow Streetlight

For most of a century, dusk in Kolkata turned a specific shade of amber-yellow — the colour of a sodium-vapour streetlamp. Cities everywhere are switching to white LEDs now, and that particular colour of evening is quietly running out.

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Kings of the Road: Kolkata's Last Yellow Ambassador Taxis
Heritage 7 min read

Kings of the Road: Kolkata's Last Yellow Ambassador Taxis

Built from a 1956 British design in a factory that stopped making them over a decade ago, Kolkata's yellow Ambassador taxi became the city's icon anyway — and is now being retired, one 15-year-old chassis at a time.

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Khoborer Kagoj: The Newspaper Kolkata Reads Without Buying
Culture 6 min read

Khoborer Kagoj: The Newspaper Kolkata Reads Without Buying

Pinned to a board outside a tea stall, a single copy of the morning paper gets read, argued over, and passed along by a dozen people who never pay for it — a small daily ritual with a surprisingly organised history behind it.

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Bajar Kora: The Bengali Art of Buying Fish Properly
Food & Culture 7 min read

Bajar Kora: The Bengali Art of Buying Fish Properly

No Bengali morning is complete without a trip to the bajar — and no trip to the bajar is complete without the ritual lifting of a gill, the haggling, and the walk home with a fish wrapped in newspaper, tail end peeking out.

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Kumartuli: The Lane Where Clay Becomes a Goddess
Heritage 8 min read

Kumartuli: The Lane Where Clay Becomes a Goddess

In a few hundred metres of North Kolkata lane, straw skeletons are wrapped in river mud and, over a few weeks each year, turned into ten thousand arms, a demon, a lion, and a goddess with eyes that haven't been painted yet.

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Bapuji Cake: The Eight-Rupee Taste of Every Bengali Childhood
Food & Culture 6 min read

Bapuji Cake: The Eight-Rupee Taste of Every Bengali Childhood

A spongy square wrapped in cheap printed paper, sold beside the tea stall for less than a coin is worth anywhere else — Bapuji Cake has been Bengal's constant since 1973, named, almost by accident, after Gandhi.

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Singho Kol: The Lion-Headed Taps That Watered Calcutta
Heritage 6 min read

Singho Kol: The Lion-Headed Taps That Watered Calcutta

Bolted to street corners across old Kolkata, a cast-iron lion's head once decided whether a neighbourhood drank clean water or didn't. Most have gone silent now, but the city still walks past them every day.

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Dupur Ghum: The Sleep Kolkata Takes Together
Culture 6 min read

Dupur Ghum: The Sleep Kolkata Takes Together

Somewhere past two in the afternoon, Kolkata quietly agrees to stop. Shutters half-close, a cat claims a weighing scale, a whole city exhales into rice, dal, and a nap it has never been talked out of.

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Running on Bare Feet: Kolkata's Last Hand-Pulled Rickshaws
Heritage 7 min read

Running on Bare Feet: Kolkata's Last Hand-Pulled Rickshaws

Kolkata is the only city left on Earth where a human being still pulls another through the street by hand. A look at the migrant workers who keep a century-old trade alive, and the monsoon lanes that still depend on it.

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The Last Bell: A Farewell to Kolkata's Trams
Heritage 8 min read

The Last Bell: A Farewell to Kolkata's Trams

For 151 years, one vehicle moved through this city at the pace of thought, rang its bell through the chaos, and asked nothing more than that you slow down. In September 2024, Kolkata's trams came to an end. Almost.

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Cha: The Emotion Kolkata Drinks
Food & Culture 7 min read

Cha: The Emotion Kolkata Drinks

In Kolkata, tea is not a beverage — it is the setting for every argument, confession, and quiet understanding the city has ever produced. This is what a small clay cup actually contains.

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The Cabin and the Cutlet: Inside Kolkata's Last Partitioned Restaurants
Food & Culture 7 min read

The Cabin and the Cutlet: Inside Kolkata's Last Partitioned Restaurants

Tucked into the older lanes of North Kolkata, a handful of cabin restaurants still serve fish fry and kobiraji cutlets from kitchens without refrigerators — relics of a colonial encounter that Bengali cooks quietly made their own.

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Last Call on Park Street: Inside Kolkata's Drinking Culture and the Bars That Made It
Lifestyle 9 min read

Last Call on Park Street: Inside Kolkata's Drinking Culture and the Bars That Made It

Kolkata's nightlife doesn't announce itself. It hides in dim-lit bars that smell of decades, spills out onto Park Street long after midnight, and keeps an entire alternative music scene alive.

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The Grand Houses: Life, Power, and Stone in Kolkata's Bonedi Baris
Heritage 9 min read

The Grand Houses: Life, Power, and Stone in Kolkata's Bonedi Baris

Long before the city had a skyline worth speaking of, Kolkata's zamindars built mansions of astonishing ambition — and the world they created inside them shaped Bengali culture for two centuries.

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The Boro Match: How Kolkata's Greatest Football Rivalry Became a City's Soul
Culture 9 min read

The Boro Match: How Kolkata's Greatest Football Rivalry Became a City's Soul

Long before Indian cricket filled stadiums, two football clubs divided a city along fault lines of land, language, and longing — and the wound, still open, is the most alive thing about Kolkata.

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Boi Para: College Street and the Life of the Mind
Culture 7 min read

Boi Para: College Street and the Life of the Mind

In the shadow of some of the subcontinent's oldest universities, a kilometre of Kolkata trades in books, argument, and kochuri — and has done so, in roughly the same spirit, for over a century.

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Howrah Bridge at First Light: Steel, Sweat, and the City That Crosses It
Heritage 7 min read

Howrah Bridge at First Light: Steel, Sweat, and the City That Crosses It

Before traffic thickens, the bridge belongs to porters, flower sellers, and photographers. Its history runs parallel to their routines — part engineering feat, part daily ritual between two cities.

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Two Chinatowns, One Memory: How Kolkata Learned to Eat Chinese
Food & Culture 7 min read

Two Chinatowns, One Memory: How Kolkata Learned to Eat Chinese

From early settlements near Bowbazar to the restaurant-lined lanes of Tangra, Kolkata's Chinese community reshaped how the city eats—while quietly absorbing and reflecting the culture around them.

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The Red Walls of Bow Barracks and the Quiet Persistence of a Community
Seasonal Travel 7 min read

The Red Walls of Bow Barracks and the Quiet Persistence of a Community

Behind a row of aging red brick buildings near Bow Bazaar, Bow Barracks still holds fragments of Kolkata's Anglo-Indian life—especially in December, when music, cake, and memory return to the courtyard.

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