All Kolkata tours

One full day in the oldest, most stubborn part of Kolkata — the north, which has resisted every attempt to modernise it. You cross the same river twice in one afternoon by two modes of transport a century apart, eat in a room that has never had a menu, and walk into a private mansion most of Kolkata has never seen.

Two days across five civilisations that still share the same streets. The north gives you old Kolkata — artisans, river crossings, a literary quarter. The south gives you colonial Kolkata, a Chinatown most visitors never find, the last tram in India, and an evening where the dish that went global was invented and hasn't moved.

Bengali, Hakka Chinese, Anglo-Indian, Mughal, British — all still running in the same streets. A temple the city was named after. A taxi the rest of India gave up. The home of the only person to write the national anthems of two countries. The kind of three days you spend years talking about.